Warm-up time.

Coming in from outdoors on a frigid winter day, there are few things more welcome than a piping hot cup of cocoa. Following the trend that previously has hit the coffee and tea fields, traditional flavor no longer is sufficient, though. Nowadays, exotic flavors rule the roost, and one is hard put to find just plain chocolate.

Typical of manufacturers is Bernardi's Fresh Roast, Cleveland, Ohio. Normally a coffee brewer - witness its name - the company offers six blends of cocoa, each one beginning with the word "chocolate," but only chocolate fudge comes close to what most of us grew up with. The others all change the basic taste by adding another ingredient - almond, hazelnut, mint, praline, and raspberry. Not that we're complaining necessarily; we're just commenting on the times. Though the praline and raspberry are a bit oversweet, all are tasty and definitely will warm your bones when the temperature's plummeting.

Jenny's Country Kitchen, Lincoln, Neb., can be counted on to uphold tradition with Original Moo-Cow cocoa. Best of all, it comes in a black-and-white cow-print carton, looking like your favorite Guernsey Yet, even Jenny couldn't resist temptation, adding choc-malt...