The day of the flying fish.

• Author: Valvo, James
• Position: Letters - Letter to the editor

I enjoyed Katherine Mangu-Ward's article on sushi in the November issue ("The Day of the Flying Fish"). I spent many years cooking in high-end French-Asian fusion restaurants while that trend was in its heyday.

Having spent considerable time on the front lines of the "authenticity" debate concerning sushi and traditional French forms as well, I could not agree with Mangu-Ward more on the actual roots of sushi, but I would extend that analysis to most "traditional" cuisine.

Before this modern age of nearly instant global transportation of goods and services, sustenance was a result of availability and necessity. The idea that...