The butcher always rings twice.

• Position: What's New? Winter Gear & Food fFst - Mail order meat - Brief Article

It's not all that many years ago that a revolutionary idea emerged in the meat industry: Premium steaks could be sold by overnight express delivery. With dry ice or freezer packs to preserve the meat, the idea took off. This, in turn, sparked other manufacturers to offer their products the same way, and it is now possible to get just about any type of meat or fowl delivered right to your doorstep. All you,. need is, a phone, fax, or computer to get the operation under way. With many of these mail-order butcher shops maintaining their own websites, it is not even necessary for them to send out a catalogue to attract the business.

One of the most novel products we have encountered of late comes from Allen Brothers, Chicago (www.allenbrothers.com)--shanks. Anyone who has enjoyed the rich, full-bodied flavor of osso buco in a restaurant would have a hard time believing it could be duplicated in a precooked version. Well, believe it, because this bone-in veal shank braised in a demi-glace sauce and roasted with garlic, Portabello mushrooms, tomatoes, shallots, and spices is succulently cooked to the point where it almost falls off the bone, then vacuum-sealed in a plastic pouch. All that's required in your kitchen is to pop the bag into boiling water until the meat is piping hot. As marvelous as the osso buco is, it is matched by two items we have never even seen in restaurants--pork and lamb shanks. The former is braised in a demi-glace, then roasted with Granny Smith apples and apple cider; the lamb is braised in a demi-glace featuring mint jelly and red wine, then roasted. In each case, these savory dishes would do justice to the finest dining establishment. The shanks come four to a box, each piece weighing a hefty 20-24 ounces, the veal running $134.95; the lamb, $99.95; and the pork, $79.95. Allen Brothers can also deliver beautifully marbled boneless strip sirloins (four 10-ounce steaks for $79.95) and an assortment of plump (six to seven ounces) boneless duck breasts, needing only to be warmed. A box of eight runs $54.95 for original roasted breasts or $59.95 for Cajun (marinated in onion, garlic, tomato powder, paprika, salt, and pepper) or honey orange (marinated in sugar, honey, and orange extract).

If you prefer your meat down-home style, the New Braunfels (Tex.) Smokehouse (www.nbsmokehouse. com) is the perfect source. The key here is hickory smoking, which lends a spicy overlay to just about any form of beef, pork, or fowl. A great...