St. Killian's cheese shop.

• Position: AND AROUND THE HIGHLANDS - Brief article

Hugh O'Neill ran a bistro on South Pearl in Denver for years, and it was at the bistro named Hugh's that he developed a fondness for European cheeses. So in 2001 when he decided to close the bistro, opening a cheese shop seemed a natural transition.

O'Neill chose a store that offered just enough space to house the long cheese and sausage case to hold international products. O'Neill and wife lonah deFreitas make dozens of trips to the airport each month to pick up overnight shipments of cheese from Ireland (O'Neill's homeland), Spain, Italy and France. O'Neill recommends some of the Italian bertolli salume he carries, and buffalo mozzarella. His store is small, so he markets products he believes are the best in the class of pastas, sauces and olive oils.

It's the location of the store that...