Squelching freedom in Iraqui Kurdistan.

• Author: Enders, David

My trip to Kurdistan began inauspiciously. I flew from Amman, Jordan, to Irbil, the largest city in the north. I was pulling a sort of end-around on my way to Baghdad. Kurdistan has looser visa rules than Baghdad, and I hadn't bothered applying for a visa to go directly to Baghdad because the Ministry of Interior official in charge of issuing press visas had threatened to arrest me over a story I wrote last year about torture by the Iraqi police. As I suspected, I had no trouble getting a visa in Irbil, and so I began my tour of Kurdistan, which the Bush Administration holds up as a success story.

I went to the local journalists' union and asked about the arrest of Kamal Said Qadir, a Kurdish law professor who had been living abroad but was arrested upon his arrival in Kurdistan in October. Said was sentenced to thirty years in prison for a pair of articles he had posted on his website denouncing Massoud Barzani, head of the Kurdistan Democratic Party. That sentence was reduced to eighteen months, and Said was released this spring.

"He is a university professor, not a journalist," Farhad Auny, the head of the union, told me.

I pressed him on freedom of speech in Kurdistan.

In response, Auny held up a copy of the independent weekly newspaper Hawlati, the biggest paper in the region, and turned to an op-ed written by Hafez Hawezi, a journalist based in Koya, home of Jalal Talabani, head of the Patriotic Union of Kurdistan.

"In their last issue, they have published an article that talks about the Kurdish leadership," Auny said. "They are calling them Pharaonic. The article tells the Kurdish leadership to leave Kurdistan. They are free to write this article. According to the law in Kurdistan, this journalist's rights are protected."

The day after Auny's reassurance, security forces loyal to Talabani took Hawezi from his home, beat him, and put him behind bars. His colleagues bailed him out of prison a day later, but he still faces charges.

In Irbil, I also went to visit Hassan Babaqir, a member of the Kurdish parliament who belongs to the more radical of the two main Kurdish Islamic parties. During the December election, Barzani's security forces stood idly by as mobs loyal to his Kurdistan Democratic Party burned down the local headquarters of the Kurdistan Islamic Union, killing four. (Islamic parties took fifteen of 111 seats in the autonomous region's parliament.)

Babaqir was on the phone, receiving the first reports of a demonstration in...