Southern comforts from Uruguay.

• Author: Larronde, Suzanne Murphy
• Position: Manos del Uruguay

A FEW YEARS AGO when J. Crew went shopping for a company to produce the 87,000 woolen scarves, caps, and mittens it needed to aceessorize an upcoming fall fashion collection, the US retail giant looked not to suppliers in China, but to a small knitting cooperative in South America called Manos del Uruguay.

Filling the exacting orders of international clothing labels like Polo Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Marc by Marc Jacobs, and J. Crew is nothing new for Manos; the nonprofit enterprise is celebrating its fortieth anniversary. But its rise to the top as one of Uruguay's leading producers of hand- and machine-knit woolen garments and quality yarn is just one of Manos' triumphs. Another all-important success story has taken shape around the empowerment of its work force, composed of some 350 mostly female artisans from isolated areas across this agriculturally dependent country of 3.5 million people. The cooperative's members create their own products without having to leave home, but also direct every aspect of their business, from management to marketing.

In the 1600s, Spanish settlers introduced sheep to this region, and the animals thrived amidst the rolling grasslands and temperate climate. More than three centuries later, sheep production endures as one of the country's economic pillars, along with the hand-spinning, dyeing, and knitting of woolen textiles--exacting occupations that are traditionally performed by rural housewives. In 1968, in an organizational effort aimed at raising the profile of this invisible, home-based work force while direct-marketing its wares, five women from remote agricultural areas came together to form a knitting cooperative made up of five production groups under the banner Manos del Uruguay. The first batch of handmade apparel they offered for sale in Montevideo all but flew off the shelves, and within a matter of months, the number of its groups had mushroomed across ten of the country's nineteen departments. Two...