Schminken, Dufte und Raucherwerk der Jemenitinnen: Lexikon der Substanzen, Utensilien und Techniken.

• Author: Hehmeyer, Ingrid
• Position: Reviews of Books - Book Review

Schminken, Dufte und Raucherwerk der Jemenitinnen: Lexikon der Substanzen, Utensilien und Techniken. By HANNE SCHONIG. Beiruter Texte und Studien, vol. 91. Beirut: ERGON VERLAG, 2002. Pp. xi + 415, illus. [euro]82.

The subject of Schonig's monograph is cosmetics, scents, and incense in the Arab Republic of Yemen, where the author conducted field research in four separate regions between 1994 and 2000. In order to do justice to the enormous variety of substances, recipes, and local practices, Schonig addresses her subject from various disciplinary angles. These include Arabic philology and associated historical, ethnographic, and sociological Islamic contexts. The work also touches upon the scientific disciplines of botany (most substances are of plant origin), chemistry, mineralogy, and pharmacy. The author herself is a scholar of Arabic and Islamic studies.

The principal informants in the field research are women who use the substances and those who prepare them. The (male) drug merchants in the markets add theoretical knowledge about the substances they sell and which, in some instances, they also produce; most of them are familiar with the works of the classical Arabic authors on botany and pharmacy. It is important for the reader to keep in mind that in the context of the book the term "drug" is applied in its pharmaceutical sense, as a substance of natural (that is plant, animal, or mineral) origin which is used for its medicinal properties in their widest sense, including--in this instance--their cosmetic properties.

As for the social context in Yemen, Schonig points out that the application of cosmetics, scents, and incense is considered essential for married women in order to become and remain sexually desirable to their husbands. For the same reason their use is generally prohibited for unmarried women. But a wife adorns herself not only out of love and respect for her husband. She also resorts to these practices as a married woman, for status purposes, in front of others. Cosmetics and scents play an integral part in hospitality. At regular afternoon gatherings, a Yemeni hostess honors her female guests by generously offering perfumes and incense. The guest shows her respect for the hostess through her well-groomed appearance. Cosmetics and scented substances therefore have a special role in Yemeni social intercourse.

The main body of the work is a rich inventory of the various substances, as well as the utensils and techniques...