Roaming the Riviera.

• Author: Rothenberg, Sheila
• Position: Travel in the Cote d'Azur - Includes related information on air travel and car rental arrangements

RECLINING comfortably on two plum-cushioned chaise lounges, we gazed across the brilliant blue surface of the Hotel Bel-Air Cap-Ferrat's "horizon pool" at the Mediterranean. The French expression tromp l'oeil (literally, deceive the eye) might have been coined for this cleverly constructed oasis Without a restraining wall, the water pours over the outer rim into a catch basin, then is recycled, illusion of flowing directly into the sea, the false horizon giving the pool its name. Glancing up f mesmerizing spectacle, we watched a sleek white cruise ship, Wind Star, gliding parallel to the shor

One week later, feeling just like Alice through the looking glass, we stood at that ship's rail, s and the grand hotel in a mirror image of the scene. This juxtaposition of images had come about as t our decision to explore the pleasures of the French Riviera's Cote d'Azur first by land, then by sea

From Saint-Tropez to Monaco, the Riviera conjures up thoughts of gambling casinos, topless beaches festivals, and racing car rallies. Yet, there is another aspect to this area in southeast France, on of elegance and style indelibly stamped on it more than a century ago. Various houses of European ro in business and industry, and famed authors and artists found the sun-drenched land between the Maritime Alps and the shore a welcome refuge from the harsher winters they faced at home. Many proceeded to build elaborate chateaux and gardens that flourished in the semi-tropical climate--after all, the Riviera is just across the Mediterranean from the warmth of North Africa--establishing a colony to which their names lent a glamorous cachet.

About midway between Nice and Monte Carlo lies Cap Ferrat. On this narrow spit of land jutting into the Mediterranean, the magical blue light that inspired Henri Matisse and a host of other painters led to the naming of the area the Cote d'Azur (azure coast). The verdant pinewoods, steep gorges, and abundance of brilliantly colored, fragrant shrubs and flowers vie for attention with the gently rolling sea. It is little wonder that, upon viewing this splendid sight, King Leopold II of Belgium was moved to describe it as "paradise on Earth."

Realizing its potential, the Compagnie Hoteliere de Centres de Tourisme Automobile selected the tip of the cape in 1908 to erect a hotel in which dukes and princesses, as well as financial barons, could pass the winter in an ambience that reflected their wealth. As years and wars came and went, so did the mindset that considered the French Riviera suitable only as a winter resort. Water sports, golf, tennis, and suntans drew the "beautiful people" throughout the calendar, and a new era was born.

To accommodate its clientele, the Hotel Bel-Air Cap-Ferrat renovated, modernized, and threw open its doors year round, though its style, like a grand dame who has undergone a successful face-lift, remained unchanged. The Bel-Air's timeless elegance has made it the standout of all the hotels nestled on the cape. Its well-earned reputation made our choice of a base for the land portion of our trip an easy one.

Used to the infuriatingly interminable delays in today's mega-airports, we were amazed and delighted to be able to retrieve our luggage, clear immigration, and pick up our rented Renault in less than half an hour after touching down at Nice Cote d'Azur International Airport. It was mid-morning, and the sun glinted off the whitestoned hotels lining the road to our left and the immaculately groomed beach to our right as we drove along the shore road that skirted Nice. Swaying palm trees shaded the parallel path for strollers, and the beach already was filling up with sun worshippers, unfurling straw mats and peeling down to the bikinis and monokinis that are almost a uniform on the Riviera.

At the outskirts of the city, we began to climb as the road became a gently curving cliff drive. In short order, we passed through Villefranche-sur-Mer, turned off for Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and, once we figured out that the town and the cape were separate entities, searched for and found the tiny sign that directed us back down to the narrow shore road leading to the hotel.

Driving through the gates and into the driveway, we were whisked from the hustle and bustle of the 20th century to another time, as if we had entered the courtyard of a country manor of the Belle Epoque era. Inside the Bel-Air, this impression was reinforced by soaring ceilings, marble pillars, deep, floral-printed chairs and sofas scattered around two open lobby rooms, and, through the floor-to-ceiling windows and French doors, sweeping vistas of riotously colored gardens.

Our luggage swiftly was unloaded, keys were collected so the car could be spirited off to be parked, and registration took but moments. Then, after a ride up in a turn-of-the-century glass-and-metal-grilled elevator and short walk down the corridor, we were led into a perfect French country sitting room. Pink, green, and cream accents were everywhere, from the wallpaper and drapery to the padded headboard and spread on the king-sized bed, echoing the stripes of the sofa and armchairs, as well as the fresh flowers in vases throughout the room.

An armoire opened to remind us we still were in the last decade of the 20th century. Revealed were a television set that, if we wanted the intrusion, could pull in CNN and French, Italian, German, and British programming, reflecting the new age of the European Community. A well-stocked mini-bar and refrigerator and a safe that allowed us to set our own combination added to the amenities.

On the coffee table were a bright bouquet of pink roses, a bowl of fresh fruit (frequently replenished during our stay), and an insulated wicker basket containing a delicate china tea service. When opened, the fragrant aroma of herbal tea filled the room. Should Madam and Monsieur wish, we were informed, this invigorating brew could be delivered daily.

The setting might have been turn-of-the-century. but the bathroom was all modern conveniences. A deep marble tub held a temperature-controlled shower/shampoo attachment, with a hinged glass wing-door to prevent splashing. A wall-mounted hair dryer and swing-out shaving and makeup mirror made grooming easy, while thick terry robes and plentiful towels of all sizes filled a shelf. Behind a door, a separate water closet contained a toilet and bidet in total privacy. A floor-to-ceiling window let in sunlight and brought the splendor of the sprawling gardens inside.

After settling in, we decided to walk the grounds. The three-story Bel-Air blends into a hillside, making the hotel one with its surroundings. What makes it unique on Cap Ferrat are the 14 acres on which the Bel-Air sparkles like a gemstone. No detail is ignored, no matter how insignificant, and credit for the hotel's smooth running is owed to the vice president of operations, Hansjorg Maissen, who comes from a Swiss family steeped in a tradition of hotel management. It is his wife, however, who is responsible for the magnificent gardens that surround the building.

Several years ago, while the hotel was undergoing extensive renovations, she envisioned how the then-overgrown landscape could be tamed and enhanced, and the project became a labor of love. Under Mme. Maissen's guidance, the umbrella pines that encircled the Bel-Air were cut to window height, thus affording a sweeping panorama of the Mediterranean as one enters the hotel and looks out through the curved windows that surround the domed lobby. The diversity and colors of the plantings throughout the grounds stimulate the senses, especially the fragrances of the myriad varieties of flowers stretching as far as the eye can see.

At the end of the gardens, a parapet overlooks the sea and, below, Le Club Dauphin, the pool club built into the hillside. Access is via a succession of pathways wending their way down the steep hill or, for the less energetic, an electric-powered funicular (tram) that delivers one from garden to the club complex. By mutual agreement, we made it a point to walk down each day, but take advantage of the easy way up.

The Olympic-sized horizon pool has been presided over for the last 40 years by Pierre Gruneberg, who, with his unique method of instruction, has taught Charlie Chaplin, Jean Cocteau, and the Onassis family--as well as hundreds of the hotel's guests--to swim. The first step is to overcome one's fear of the water. Gruneberg accomplishes this on dry land by instructing his subjects to immerse their heads under the water in a huge salad bowl and sing! After that, the actual strokes are easy to learn, especially with the buoyancy of the salt-water pool.

For the more adventurous, at the base of the hill is a platform with steps leading into the Mediterranean for snorkeling or swimming. As serene as the sea seems from a distance, it is far from that close up, and the waves pounding against the rocks and the strong current made the decision to return to the peaceful pool and surrounding chaises an easy one.

A bar, buffet, and dining area at the Dauphin provide everything from sandwiches to full meals, allowing guests to spend the entire day poolside without having to return to the hotel to eat. Drinks and snacks can be brought right to your chaise, so that applying sunscreen is about the most strenuous activity, unless you choose otherwise.

Well worth returning for, though, is dinner at Le Cap, the Bel-Air's restaurant that is among the most prestigious in the area. On warm evenings--as are most on the cape except for midwinter-guests have the option of dining on the terrace under the stars. Indoors or out, the experience is superb, both in taste and presentation, thanks to the culinary magic of Chef de Cuisine Jean-Claude Guillon, whose Michelin rating is well-deserved.

With a vivid sunset providing a magnificent background and a mild breeze making the candle on our table flicker romantically, we sat on the terrace...