Playing in the Panhandle.

• Author: ORR, VANESSA

Southeast Alaska offers everything from railroad tours to fishing to wildlife viewing to cultural exhibitions.

Once one of the best kept secrets in the state, Alaska's panhandle, otherwise known as Southeast, has become a Mecca for those travelers looking for something a little different. Home to record-breaking king salmon and halibut, wildlife in its natural setting and picturesque vistas for as far as the eye can see, the area has its own unique character, as seen in each of the towns and villages that make up the Inside Passage.

Getting to some areas of Southeast is as easy as getting on a boat--whether a cruise ship or an Alaska Marine Highway System ferry. Other areas require a plane ride or a road trip. Still, the effort to explore such a unique area often pays off. The people of Southeast are friendly, the scenery is stunning and the attractions are plentiful, no matter what a visitor's interest. Whether one wants to learn more about Native or Russian history, take part in a brothel or gold-mining tour, or even visit more extreme spots, Southeast Alaska is more than willing to accommodate.

Living History

Southeast is an area rich in history--in some areas, things still haven't changed much since the good old days. In Skagway, for example, the Gold Rush of 1897 doesn't seem long gone; dance-hall girls in corsets perform in refurbished saloons, and two national historic districts boast 100 buildings that date back from the Gold Rush period. "For a little town, we stay real busy," said David Eslinger, public information officer for the National Park Service. "We go from a population of 800 in the winter to seeing more than 12,000 people in the course of a single day. Last year, we had three-quarters of a million visitors."

Historical attractions in Skagway include the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, which Eslinger says is the most visited national park in Alaska. An average of 3,600 people per year hike the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail, which traces the path of gold miners on their way to the Yukon, and 40 percent of visitors take a train ride on the White Pass and Yukon Route railroad. The railroad is housed in its original building, built in 1898, along with the National Park Service; the Trail of '98 Museum is located only a few blocks down the road.

"There's also a very popular melodrama, called the Days of '98, which is now in its 28th year," added Eslinger. "It tells of the life and death of Soapy Smith and Frank Reed, who...