Plats Interdits.

• Author: Freund, Charles Paul
• Position: Paris' Le Coin de Verre restaurant is part of French movement to resist European Union food-safety regulations - Brief Article

If you want to dine at Paris' Le Coin de Verre, you'd be wise to expect the dinner cops to join you for dessert: The menu at this restaurant in the largely North African neighborhood of Belleville is filled with forbidden food. No, there aren't any magic mushrooms or anything along those lines (that remains a Dutch specialty). This place features such morsels as beef on the bone, Corsican cheese, and little sausages known as andouillettes, all of which are quite well known to anyone who likes traditional French food (a group reputed to include much of the French populace), and all of which have been regulated off Europe's dinner tables in recent years by the European Union's zero-risk food rules.

According to Britain's Sunday Telegraph, Le Coin de Verre is at the forefront of "a culinary resistance movement" dedicated to flouting the E.U.'s food-safety regulations. Why bother? Because these dishes taste good, despite (or in some cases because of) the microbes and other ingredients that frighten regulators. As owner Hugues Calliger sensibly told the Telegraph, "Risky food should be marked and labeled. The people should be free to...