Paraty vuelve a brillar.
Author | Fabey, Michael |
Position | TT: Paraty shines again. |
Poblado brasileño halla nueva riqueza en viejos tesoros.
"¿Como se llama este establecimiento?", pregunta un cliente en una tienda de la localidad.
La dependiente frunce el ceño y responde con una sonrisa: "Todavía no hemos pensado en un nombre".
En el poblado costero de Paraty, la recuperación ha ocurrido tan rápidamente que algunos empresarios abrieron establecimientos antes de pensar en el nombre que les iban a dar. El éxito del pueblo colonial ha sido una sorpresa, igual a la que dieron los europeos hace siglos.
Hace unos 300 años, Paraty era uno de los puertos más importantes de la región gracias al oro que se encontró en las colinas de lo que hoy se llama Minas Gerais, el estado justo al oeste de Paraty. Los exploradores portugueses llevaban el oro por un viejo camino de los indios guianas que rodeaba la sierra y pasaba por los estados de Minas, Sao Paulo y Río de Janeiro hasta Paraty. Los mineros no tardaron en avanzar por los caminos como un ejército de hormigas, tirando de burros con pesadas alforjas. Mil toneladas del precioso metal se movieron a través del puerto durante el apogeo de Paraty.
El auge desapareció en la década de 1720, cuando se abrió una vía más eficiente, el Caminho de Garcia-Pais, que iba directamente a Río, quitándole 15 días al peligroso viaje. Cuando se abandonó la vieja ruta del oro, Paraty, al que sólo se puede llegar por mar o por el traicionero camino de la sierra, se convirtió en otra aislada aldea de pescadores.
El autobús desde Río tarda cinco horas en llegar a Paraty. En el camino, los viajeros contemplan ensenadas barridas por las olas y asombrosos paisajes montañosos, hasta llegar al pueblo que el explorador florentino Américo Vespucio comparaba con un paraíso terrenal. Las tribus de la comarca le dieron al pueblo el nombre de los peces blancos que abundan en sus costas...
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