Oslo odyssey.

• Author: Rothenberg, Sheila

THE LAST PERSON one might expect to encounter on a summer day in Norway would be Santa Claus. Nevertheless, there he was to greet us as we stepped off the ferry onto the dock at Drobak. To accommodate the balmy late-June weather, he had forgone his usual arctic attire, settling instead for a red cotton shirt, jeans, tasseled cap, and boots. Lacking snow, there was no call for sleigh and reindeer, so he was perched on a jaunty rig pulled by a lively golden pony. Round and jolly, St. Nick personified the small town on the Oslofjord where it is Christmas all year round.

Eva Johansen and her husband, Willy, settled in Drobak in 1976. An uprooted pharmacist, Eva turned to handicraft to augment the family income. and her designs met with such success that she was hard pressed to keep inventory on the shelves. Before long, she opened Tregaardens Julehus (Wooden Christmas House) and stocked it with toys, dolls, ornaments. and other accoutrements of the holiday. Clad in homemade traditional Norwegian folk costume and surrounded by cheerful elves, trolls, and Christmas witches, Eva is on hand to welcome visitors and shoppers who flock from around the globe to this enchanted spot. We found ourselves as enraptured as the children who scampered from display to display, wide-eyed with wonder.

Next door to the Julehus is the post office that has become internationally recognized as Santa's mailing address. Each year, thousands of letters addressed to Pere Noel, Father Christmas, St. Nicholas, or Santa Claus are received from youngsters the world over.

Among the small communities that dot the Oslofjord coastline, Drobak is a veritable treasure, with museums, restaurants, shops, and even an 18-hole golf course. In summer, the waters of the Gulf Stream-fed fjord average around 72[degrees]F, ideal for swimming, making Drobak's tiny beaches a lure for sunbathers and family outings. Land is an expensive proposition, so the wooden houses, many of them maintaining the original 18th- and 19th-century architecture, are set close together, lending an air of intimacy to this charming community. The sense of history is typified in the Kumlegaarden Restaurant, once a private residence dating back more than 200 years that has been divided into a cozy collection of dining rooms furnished with period pieces. On such a gloriously sunny day, we opted to have lunch in the small back garden. The menu reflected Norway's ties with the sea--gravlax (salmon cured in spices, herbs, and aquavit), herring, and grilled salmon, all prepared to perfection.

The ferry ride from Oslo to Drobak set the tone for much of our travels around the nation's capital. With many attractions on islands and peninsulas, the fjord serves as a nautical highway, far more invigorating and interesting than the inland roads. We even had chosen to arrive in Norway by sea, sailing overnight on the Queen of Scandinavia from Copenhagen, the first stop on our Scandinavian sojourn.

Access to the harbor as well as the heart of Oslo had led to the selection of the Hotel Continental as our home base. Had it not been for our luggage, we could have strolled there from the pier. (The three-block walk down to the harbor was one we were to make often in the days ahead, whether seeking sea-going transportation, browsing among the many shops in the mini-malls that abut the docks, or grabbing a snack from the numerous fast-food vendors along the waterfront.

The Continental afforded far more than a handy location, combining charming, manor house elegance with modern convenience. Particularly welcome in the unusually hot--for northern Europe--summer was the fan-driven cooling system that worked as efficiently as air conditioning. The sitting room of our suite offered deep, comfortable chairs to sink into and hassocks to put our feet up on after a day's sightseeing. Wraparound windows overlooked the Royal Palace in its park-like setting, one of the city's main squares, and a bustling avenue humming with shopping, cafes, restaurants, and movie theaters. Despite the busyness of the area, with throngs of people out till the light finally began to fade after 11 p.m., none of the noise penetrated the room. A large campaign-style desk, television set with VCR, plush sofa, and antique credenza concealing a well-stocked minibar made for a very livable living room.

The bedroom featured a king-sized bed that, in typical Scandinavian fashion, was covered in twin down comforters--one for each of us. Northern Europeans like nothing better than snuggling, winter or summer, under such coverings. The hotel's housekeeping department seemed puzzled that we preferred to sleep atop the comforters, but cheerfully fetched the top sheets we requested, which were more than sufficient for that time of year. Built-in wardrobes provided ample room, including a handy programmable safe for valuables and a pants press to perk up travel-weary clothing. With fluffy towels, terrycloth robes, and the usual amenities, the bathroom fulfilled all the creature comforts one might want.

Besides its proximity to the harbor, the Continental is within walking distance of many of Oslo's attractions. For those farther away, a number of electric trams intersect close by the hotel, making connections easy. An indispensable purchase is the Oslo Card, which serves as an "open sesame" to the city. A single payment--about $20 for one...