The mystery of bonfim quem tem fe vai a pe (those who have faith to go on foot).

AuthorKoeser, Rita Shannon
PositionIgreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim - Essay

Up on a hill in the city of Salvador, in the state of Bahia, Brazil, stands the Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (Church of Our Lord of the Good End), the most beloved church in the city. Something extraordinary happens here at this church every year in this city known for its mixture of races and religions: baianas (ladies of Bahia)--wearing fantastic white costumes with hooped skirts, multicolored necklaces, and turbans on their heads--wash the steps of the church with perfumed water. It is an elaborate and inspiring ceremony of faith by people of all religions, most notably the Catholic religion and the African spirit religion, Candomble. The Lavagem do Bonfim (Washing of Bonfim) is the most revered day of a ten-day festival and is held every year on the second Thursday after Three Kings Day (January 6). Adored for welcoming both Catholics and non-Catholics, Nosso Senhor do Bonfim represents the crucified and resurrected Jesus Christ to Catholics. To the followers of Candomble, be represents the god Oxala.

The Lavagem do Bonfim starts with a mass early in the morning at the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao (Our Lady of the Conception Church), which is located in the lower part of Salvador near the Mercado Modelo and the famous Lacerda elevator that joins the lower and upper parts of the city. After the mass, thousands of people start gathering outside the church for the five-mile walk to the Nosso Senhor do Bonfim Church on the sacred hill. This is a huge procession through the city. Politicians, including the mayor of Salvador and the governor of the state of Bahia, are present. There are musicians, dancers, drummers, tourists. The excitement is building, music is playing, and the beating of drums is heard over all. Soon the procession will start. People of all religions, colors, and creeds are here together smiling, dancing, talking, and laughing. Everyone is happy. The atmosphere is exhilarating. Bands are playing. Carnival groups such as the Filhos de Gandhy (Sons of Gandhi) play a big part. But the stars of the show are the exuberant ladies, the baianas. Everyone is captivated by them as they gather and mingle with the crowds. Dressed in their extraordinary white costumes (in honor of Oxala whose color is white), they are carrying, mostly on their heads and shoulders, vases of perfumed water with flowers reside of them. When the procession reaches the Nosso Senhor do Bonfim Church, there will be much singing, many speeches, and...

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