A mirror on the maritime Maya.

• Author: Wyels, Joyce Gregory
• Position: Celarain Lighthouse

A CENTURY-OLD TOWER, survivor of many a hurricane, marks the southernmost tip of Mexico's Cozumel Island. Celarain Lighthouse rises from Punta Sur Ecological Park, a 247-acre expanse of mangroves, lagoons, reefs, and beaches that supports a variety of wildlife.

No longer used as a navigation aid, Celarain has gone the way of many old lighthouses, offering grand vistas to those willing to climb its 134 stairs and housing a small museum in the former light-housekeeper's cabin.

Unique among such museums, however, the modestly named Navigation Museum chronicles not only the Spanish galleons and pirate ships that once prowled these shores in search of gold, but also the seafaring Maya, whose canoes carried riches of another kind.

At the museum entrance, a copy of a mural from the Temple of the Warriors at Chichen Itza shows a coastal scene during the ascendancy of Chichen Itza, about 1000-1200 A.D., with oarsmen paddling boats along the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula.

Trade in such luxuries as feathered capes and embroidered cotton, as well as more basic commodities, brought wealth to the Putun Maya of the Post-Classic age. Starting from their watery base in what is now Tabasco and Campeche, this group built on an already existing coastal trade to parlay their sailors' skills into an extensive maritime trading network.

Salt and honey from Yucatan, jade and obsidian from Chiapas and Guatemala, plus fish, dried seafood, turtle and conch oil, spice, wax, aromatic resins, live animals, ceramics, and metates for grinding corn were shipped by river to 'coastal ports, then transshipped north and south via the Caribbean. Prized cacao beans from Tabasco and Guatemala served as currency.

Cozumel, a pilgrimage site for the goddess Ixchel as well as a center of...