Grapes and wines of Italy: the grapes American wine-lovers don't often know.

• Author: Robbins, Claude
• Position: Recommended wines

Italy is home to well over 1,500 different grapes. Most of us are familiar with Sangiovese (used in Chianti) or Nebbiolo (in Barolo), but there are other grapes that are equally important in Italian wine making. Here are five grapes you may not have tried before, two white and three red.

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MASTROBERARDINO, GRECO DI TUFO, 2001

WINE EVALUATION: Greco is a grape that has been grown in Italy for about 2,700 years and was brought to Italy by the Greeks. It is primarily grown in southern Italy. Unlike the more familiar white wines of the northeast zones of Italy, such as Pinot Grigio, the Greco produces a rich, full-bodied wine with fairly low acidity. Light amber in color with medium depth, this wine is typical of the intensity of color we expect from this grape. Very earth-driven (terroir) on the nose, it shows minerals and loam along with very ripe fruit and a hint of melon. Rich and powerful in the mouth, the fruit, and some of the mineral, carries from nose to mouth. It has lots of body and character to hold up to the intensity of flavor. Nice persistent finish.

SERVING TEMP: 50-55F

FOOD IDEAS: Given the body and weight of the wine, it should go quite well with high-oil fish--such as shark, tuna or salmon. It will also stand up nicely to tomato sauces, so don't be afraid to serve it with tomatoes and olives along with chicken or veal.

READINESS TO DRINK: Drink now.

GIACOSA, ROERO ARNEIS, 2003

WINE EVALUATION: Italian wines can be confusing because every time you think you understand how they are labeled they throw you a curve. Three of the wines being reviewed, Greco and Grignolino, along with the Sagrantino, are all grape names that appear at the beginning of the title of the wine. Roero Arneis is the reverse: Roero is the village and Arneis is the grape. This is a village and wine from the Piedmont in northwest Italy. It's a big white, sometimes called a "white Barolo." This wine from Bruno Giacosa is no exception--it's very big.

A medium straw yellow, it has an earthiness to complement its scented and fragrant fruit. To match the fruit is a hint of almonds and orange zest.

SERVING TEMP: 52-57F

FOOD IDEAS: This is a red wine masquerading as a white wine. (Yes, it is a white wine but can be paired to food as if it were a red wine.) Try it with rare steak (yes, steak!), wild game, grilled wild mushrooms, or with polenta and truffle oil. It will work with lots of food.

READINESS TO DRINK: Drink now.

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