Global glut of grapes makes growers gulp.

• Author: Frank, Maggie
• Position: TAR HEEL TATTLER

The bloom may be off the grape in North Carolina. A worldwide wine glut left Yadkin Valley and other growers struggling this year to find buyers for their crop.

Not that they didn't contribute to the problem. In 2001, there were 200 vineyards in the state, with 900 acres of grapes planted. Last year, there were 375 vineyards, with 1,300 acres planted. While Eastern North Carolina growers planted mostly native muscadine grapes, which are not part of the glut, others are growing European varieties such as chardonnay and merlot. Among them are farmers who had tired of the uncertainty connected with growing tobacco.

The increase in production, among other factors, had analysts predicting that North Carolina grapes from this year's harvest, which began in mid-September, could fetch as little as $400 a ton, down from an average of $937 a ton in 2005. That could damage a burgeoning industry that contributed $79 million and more than 850 jobs to the state economy last year.

But Mark Friszolowski, who manages Childress Vineyards near Lexington, has another reason for the price drop: Most of the grapes aren't very good. "Currently, there is a glut of mediocre grapes." The winery grows only about half the grapes it uses and buys about 250 tons a year. Childress will pay at least $1,500 per ton when...