Don't flip out.

• Author: ManguWard, Katherine
• Position: Briefly Noted - On cocktails - Brief article

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Beat a raw egg white into a citrusy cocktail and you get a meringue-like effect, frothy and delicious. The resulting beverage--technically classified as a flip or fizz--is irresistible, not only to the connoisseurs who are fueling America's cocktail renaissance but also to the food cops.

On January 19, one of New York's cocktail hot spots, the Pegu Club, got in trouble with city health department officials for serving such a drink. Despite warnings printed on the menu, and although raw egg whites were listed in the ingredients, the health...