A country affair with national pride.

• Author: Bach, Caleb
• Position: Argentina's Feria Rural exposition

GAUCHOS AND CITY DWELLERS MINGLE AT THE FERIA RURAL, A CELEBRATION OF ARGENTINA'S PRIZED LIVESTOCK, FARM MACHINERY AND TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS

COUNTRY COMES TO CITY AND VICE versa is perhaps the best way to describe Argentina's annual Exposicion de Ganaderia, Agricultura e Industria, Internacional, or La Feria Rural as it is popularly called. Massive draft horses, sheep that seem to be all wool, and breeding bulls weighing more than a ton suddenly invade the fairgrounds adjacent to Plaza Italia in the Palermo District of Buenos Aires. Simultaneously, over one and a half million city folk pass through the turnstiles to experience the sights, sounds, and even the smells of this little piece of urbanized campo which comes to life for three short weeks from late July to mid-August.

To describe La Rural as simply a livestock show is as absurd as calling the Olympic Games a track meet. In addition to the livestock and all manner of agricultural equipment, the exposition features mini-fairs within the fair: trade pavilions crammed with high-tech gear, outlets for artisan goods from all provinces and foodstands and restaurants with domestic and foreign delicacies. For both tourists and natives, a visit to the Rural is the best way to experience the essence of Argentina. There, in capsule form, is much of what propels this important Southern Cone country.

To trace the history of this truly national event is to track the evolution of the ranching industry, still an essential part of Argentina's economy. The fair has its roots in the Sociedad Rural Argentina (SRA), an organization founded in 1866 at the instigation of thirteen prominent hacendados bonaerenses intent on promoting ranching interests, especially the improvement of breeding stock and the expansion of markets for meat and hides. Eduardo Olivera, an agronomist trained at the Grignon Institute in France and one of the principal founders of the SRA, specified in the original charter that the organization sponsor expositions for livestock and agriculture products, awarding prizes to those worthy of distinction. On April 11, 1875, the SRA did just that, using land now in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires--a parcel at the intersection of Calles Florida and Paraguay then belonging to one of the organization's founders, Leonardo Pereyra. Dr. Nicolas Avellaneda, Argentina's president at the time, inaugurated the fair. Eighty-five ranchers exhibited 13 bulls, 74 sheep, 66 horses, 16 goats and 11 pigs to the enjoyment of some 18,000 people who visited during the seven day affair.

In 1878, La Feria Rural moved to its current home, property at the intersection of Avenida Santa Fe and Avenida Sarmiento. The twenty-seven acre site was ceded to the SRA by the park commission of Palermo and proved to be a very convenient location because the Belgrano tramway stopped right in front of the main entrance to the fairground. In 1886, the SRA decided to expand the exposition to a full-fledged international event that would attract animals and machinery from overseas, especially from Europe. The idea was vigorously promoted by General Julio Argentina Roca, who wanted to conclude his term as Argentina's president with some sort of gesture that acknowledged the Republic's growing stature in the world. He inaugurated the event personally, noting in his speech that the fair had the potential to "lift the spirit and make people love peace, work, and liberty." He also applauded the substantial European presence: some 220 imported animals, more than one-fourth of the total on exhibit. As the years rolled by, La Rural frequently would prove to be an agent for change, not just through the introduction of improved breeding stock, but also by presenting new advances in veterinary medicine, farm machinery, and refrigeration methods. Ranching was becoming a national industry and the technology associated with that industry would become as important as the animals themselves.

In a typical year, the fairgrounds are open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. except on Fridays, Saturdays, and holidays, when the eight separate entry gates stay open an additional hour. Admission costs US$5.00 for adults and US$2.50 for children. Because parking space is at a premium, many visitors simply take the subway to the Plaza Italia Station or use taxis or buses to reach the fairgrounds. Within the Predio Ferial de Palermo (the official name of the site) there are ample public services: lavatories, first aid stations, annexes for police and firemen, telephones, telex and fax facilities, and a full array of banking services. Weather is temperate during the winter in Buenos Aires but it often rains so it is wise to bring an umbrella. To fully enjoy the fair, one is well-advised to purchase the official catalog...