Corks of the North: A taste of Alaska wine shops and vintners.

• Author: Kvapil, Rachael

A glass of rhubarb wine inspired Bill Fry's journey into wine making in the mid-'90s. Impressed by his friend's homemade wine, Fry set out to create his own combinations with any available fruit: raspberries, blueberries, kiwi, rhubarb, and more. Positive feedback from friends and family encouraged his hobby, and soon he outgrew his kitchen creations. In 2003, Bear Creek Winery and Lodging opened in Homer.

Bear Creek Winery primarily produces fruit wines, which Louis Maurer, co-owner and operations manager, admits is a niche market. Grapes are incredibly difficult to grow in Alaska outside of a high-tunnel controlled space, says Maurer. Bear Creek does import grape concentrate for wines; however, most of its wines are made with locally sourced fruits.

"We've developed a network of friends, berry pickers, and farmers markets who sell us fruit," says Maurer.

On average, Bear Creek Winery purchases around 10,000 pounds of rhubarb and around 5,000 pounds of black currants and various berries statewide. Making fruit wine uses the same equipment and process as traditional grape wine: crush the fruit, ferment the juice, then age, clarify, and bottle the wine. The timing of each step and small differences in the process depend on the fruit.

"The biggest difference working with grapes and berries is their reactions to temperature changes during the fermentation process," says Maurer. "It's also easier for grape wineries to get tips online or from other grape-based wineries. It's more difficult to find information from other fruit wineries. Bill spent a decade as a homebrewer, and it really paid off."

As a small batch winery, Bear Creek Winery produces about 20,000 gallons a year that are sold statewide in major grocery chains and local liquor stores. However, winemaking is only one aspect of the entire experience offered to its customers. The winery also offers guided tours, a tasting room, lodging forvisitors, and a botanical garden.

Shopping the Shelves

Most people are introduced to wines on the shelves of liquor stores: rows and rows of bottles arranged by color (white, rose, red, sparkling, dessert, fortified wines) and further divided by grape varieties (Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot, Riesling, et cetera). Wines are only a portion of beverages offered by most liquor stores, but for some retailers it's most of their inventory. Places like Crush Bistro regularly carry wines not available elsewhere.

"We feature a lot of wine you won't find in a...