Appetite for Reduction.

Author:Eakin, Julie
Position:Book review

Isa Chandra Moscowitz (author); APPETITE FOR REDUCTION; DaCapo Press (Nonfiction: Cooking, Nonfiction: Cooking) $19.95 ISBN: 9781600940491

Byline: Julie Eakin

Hearty, low-fat vegan fare is complemented by a veteran cookbook author's considerable gift for gab in this winning collection. "If the idea of life without mashed potatoes leaves you a shattered mess, Caulipots are there to pick up the pieces." As it turns out, substituting cauliflower and veggie broth for milk and butter in her recipe is inspired. Moscowitz, host of The Post-Punk Kitchen website, also serves up onion rings (baked, not fried) with nothing to apologize for.

Simply put, the salad section rocks: "There was a time -- a lonely, lonely time -- when salads were a pale and limp affair, relegated to the side of your plate, practically weeping." Caesar Salad with Eggplant Bacon and Wild Rice Salad with Oranges and Roasted Beets headline a stellar line-up. Entree standouts include Black Beans in Red Velvet Mole (authentically Mexican in flavor), Curried Scrambled Tofu with Wilted Arugula (her breakfast staple), Brussels Sprout-Potato Hash, and Sanctuary Dressing ("because ranches are not nice places for cows").

A parade of sixteen beautifully styled color photographs dresses up the book's interior -- the appeal of the Spinach Lasagna with Roasted Cauliflower Ricotta necessitated a trip to the grocery at first glance. Highlighted, offset notes accompanying the recipes explain methods and terminology, and handy icons designate the Gluten-free...

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